The Minneapolis Institute of Arts' blockbuster show of the year opened Sunday, and it's worth going soon this minute, if you can to bask in the warmth of Henri Matisse's palette, the sheer sensuous pleasure of so much color and light, to enter a world where women loll around wearing brightly striped robes or harem pants or nothing at all. Today Matisse's art seems normal, almost commonplace because we've seen it on posters and coasters, mouse pads and mugs. But in the first part of the 20th century, when it was snapped up, fresh from his brushes, by two wealthy, art loving Baltimore sisters named Claribel and Etta Cone, it was considered shocking and wild. The Cone Sisters amassed a huge private collection of works by Matisse, then bequeathed it to the Baltimore Museum of Art, which overnight became the world's major Matisse destination. While the BMA undergoes a $28 million renovation, the core of its Matisse holdings is out on tour.